Winter is notoriously boring in Bordeaux - so what does one do on the long lonely winter nights? THE DUAD

The Bordeaux University Oenology faculty runs very high-powered, academic courses in both the production and appreciation of wine. So high powered it is, the pass rate is sometimes not even 50%.  This year is our year to participate in this illustrious and infinately famous program.  As most Bordeaux children of famous winery owners do, we have picked up our school bags and hit the chalk board. But what is it all about?

It is an exploration into how our bodies work for starters. We learn first and foremost about our senses:   how the nose works, our sense of smell, our sense of taste and our taste buds.  We have studied colors and  the effect of light, the effect of pollution be it noise or air, how it influences the way we taste, the environement in which we taste, the importance of the glass, the temperature and even our own health and the role it can play in our perception of taste and smell. That was just the first few weeks.

Following the biology lessons came the history of Bordeaux and the evolution of the vine in the world and its importance in our daily lives, commerce, religion and politics.  Then we started with the vineyard, grafting, grape maturity and soil.   Our early lessons concentrated also on the four or is it five tastes: acidity, sweetness, bitterness and saltyness. Did you know there was a fifth? Umami discovered in Japan, its the taste of soy sauce, not exactly salty, not exactly sweet…

We spend most of our tasting sessions sniffing molecules responsable for the smells in wine.  Linalol – rose, geraniol – geranium, citronellol – lemon, Whiskeylactone – coconut, IBMP – green pepper, etc.  We also get to taste wine from time to time. But more about that later.

A beautiful sunny day.  Our first visit is to the prestigious third growth Chateau Palmer.  In the heart of the Margaux appellation this winery never fails to please clients.   Their pristine cellars and delicious wines are hard to beat.  We tasted both the Chateau Palmer and the Alter Ego 2007.  Both wines were tasting very well.

A quick drive up the D2 Wine Route for a few essential photo opportunities of Chateau Lafite Rothschilde and Cos d’Estournel then we were back to Cordeillan Bages in Pauillac for the highlight of the day.

Appetizer Gaspacho with tempura anchovy

1st Course Crab Royale

Fish course

The famous vine smoked beef preparation

Smoked beef

Pre dessert? I love this restaurant!

Yummy raspberry mousse with raspberry sorbet and raspberries in raspberry liqueur!

To prepare for another day of eating and drinking, I started my day with a 10k cycle on the path which links Sauveterre de Guyenne to Lacanau.  I have the great fortune of living about 2 kms from the most beautiful and shaded part of the path.  There are numerous stops and watering holes dotted along the path.  A great day out for all ages!

Our wine tasting day starts at a Grand Cru Classe property on the limestone slopes of St Emilion. Chateau Franc Mayne boasts several kilometers of underground quaries which make this area so unique.

We followed our visit by a light lunch on the terrace of the Relais & Chateaux Hostellerie de Plaisance in the town center.  The Michelin starred restaurant is open only at night but the privileged few who know about it can dine overlooking the cobble stoned streets of St Emilion.

The view is fantastic from the terrace of Hostellerie de Plaisance.

American owned Chateau Fonplegade was our last stop.  We had a quick comparison of 3 of their 6 chateau with the two wines from Fonplegade.   The day ended with fireworks of course over La Tour du Vieux Port in Libourne.

Bastille Day Fireworks in Libourne

Stay tuned, tomorrow we go to the Medoc and have a fantastic lunch at the Relais & Chateaux Cordeillan Bages where young chef Jean Luc Rocha is following of from the acclaimed Thierry Marx who left for greener pastures this spring.

So far since the beginning of the year Decanter Tours has hosted  over 150 clients on wine tours in Bordeaux. Over 150 people have left Bordeaux more educated on the wines and the properties.  Why dont you join them?  There is still time to organize your Bordeaux holiday for September or even October.

Following is a sample of just one of our Bordeaux wine tours. We can easily adapt this to your schedule and your choice of chateaux.  Contact us for more details.

Wednesday

10:30 am     Meet Mary Dardenne in the Lobby of Cordeillan Bages. Depart for Margaux.

11:00 am      Visit and tasting at Chateau Margaux, Margaux.

12:00            Lunch at Pichon Longueville Baron, Pauillac            

2:00 pm      Visit and tasting at Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac.

3:30pm        Visit and tasting at Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac.

4:45             Transfer back to Cordeillan Bages.

Thursday

10:00 am      Visit and tasting at la Mission Haut Brion, Pessac.

11:00  am      Transfer to St Emilion and Hostellerie de Plaisance.

12:00  pm       Lunch at L’Envers du Décor, St Emilion

2:30  pm          Visit and Tasting at Chateau Petit Villages, Pomerol.

3:30  pm         Visit and Tasting at Chateau la Conseillante, Pomerol.

4:45  pm         Transfer back to Hostellerie de Plaisance.

Friday

10:30 am       Visit and tasting at Chateau Cheval Blanc, St Emilion.

12:00 pm       Lunch at Clos du Roy, St Emilion

2:00 pm        Visit and tasting at Chateau Figeac, St Emilion.

4:00 pm       Visit and tasting at Chateau Angelus, St Emilion .

Saturday

Morning free to discover St Emilion and its multitude of boutiques.

3:45 pm       Transfer to the Bordeaux airport, Merignac